Some eight years ago I stumbled into the advertising industry. I was job hunting when I received a call from a friend saying that his company was looking for someone to coordinate a project for three months. I walked into the interview with not a shred of knowledge of the industry and what exactly it was that I was going to be doing for the next three months. The three months turned into a career of nearly eight years and since then I have seen more of Malaysia than most Malaysians twice my age have in their lifetime. My car has burnt rubber in every state except for Perlis.
The breath taking scene of our Rice Bowl in the North is a must. Padi fields stretching beyond the horizon in all directions. The beautiful mountainous view of the Titiwangsa range as you cross from the West-coast to the East-coast. The awesome beaches of the East Coast are evermore complimented by friendly locals and take-it-easy beach bars. Batu Caves and its giant 42.7 meters high gold statue of the Hindu god Murugan. The historical architectures of Malacca and Penang; reminiscence of the Western powers that once controlled the nation. The modern architectures such as the Penang Bridge, The Petronas Twin Towers, Putrajaya and the Federal Territory Mosque. Let us not forget the countless number of super-sized shopping malls. A friend of mine from the US said that he wouldn’t be surprised to find such a mall in the middle of our nation’s forest reserve – Taman Negara.
Having seen most of Malaysia, I am usually the chosen tour guide for friends and relatives visiting our great nation, and it is great. We have no major political issues, very little natural disasters, a booming economy and a peaceful blend of cultures that would rival any other country in the world. Where else in the world can you casually call an Indian “Keling”, a Chinese “Ah Beng”, a Malay “Natha” or a Punjabi “Bai” without getting sued or bashed in the face. However in all this I have discovered that there is one thing that makes Malaysia what it is. Forget the cultures and the sights, that’s a given in any country, some more than others and in Malaysia it’s a whole book. I am talking about the food in Malaysia. I have on every trip sought new adventures for my taste buds and they have never been starved of it.
Recently my cousin and two of his friends from Germany spent almost a week here with me. They were awestruck with the experience as it was beyond their expectation of Malaysia. Just as those who came before and many that will come after, they loved the food. They have never had so much to eat in such a short time. It was of course a plus that they were willing to try spicy food, as most of our local dishes taste better with that touch of chilli or curry. The general first impressions that Malaysian food gets is often of hesitation, but the overwhelming experience their taste buds go through is often more pleasing. Imagine the first impression of a roadside hawker serving coconut milk, with floating green stuff topped with shaven ice and a dark liquid of sort. As the first sip of Cendol hits their tongues they have the expressions of wine connoisseurs attempting to dissect the taste of coconut and palm sugar. Taking foreigners for Indian Banana Leaf Rice is ever more entertaining. When first served with the array of Indian cuisines on a banana tree leaf, you can see the “O My God! What am I getting myself into?” look. Then with brave hesitation they pinch a little bit of everything while registering what taste palatable and what may not. As curry floods over the rice, their faces turn Christmas red from merely imagining the spiciness of the dish. What follows is sweaty foreheads and upper lips as they clumsily eat rice with their hands, gulping gallons of water while saying, “This is really very delicious”.
Do you know what else is amazing about this country of ours, you can find foods from all over the world – from Asian countries we have Korean, Japanese, Taiwanese, Vietnamese, Thai, Burmese, Sudanese, Iranian, Chinese (but of course), Northern and Southern Indian cuisines; from other parts of the world you can find Italian, French, Greek, Spanish, German, British and of course the ever-all-favourite American cuisine (burger, fries and Coke).
Three weeks after taking my German friends around, this finds himself in little old Setiawan for a wedding. For those of you who remember the name but not the place, it’s that little town you’d have to pass on your way to Lumut to take a ferry to Pangkor Island. Anyway, we were at the bride’s parent’s place being stuffed like a turkey on Thanksgiving with the 5 dishes that were already served. Just I was about to declare the end of my meal with a belch or two, the bride’s mother comes strolling out with a big pot of Tong Hoon Red Wine Chicken Soup. Apparently it is a rather famous and sought-after dish in Setiawan. So there you have it. As much as you may think that you have tried all kinds of food in Malaysia there is always something waiting for you around the corner.
Here’s a tip – Never. Never bring a Caucasian to a fast-food restaurant or for Western cuisines. You just don’t fly half way across the world to have the same thing you can get back home at less than half the price just outside your front door. That would be the definition of insanity.
Here’s another – Two shopping malls is more than enough. If your itinerary reads, “KLCC, Mid-Valley, 1 Utama, The Curve, Ikano” then you need to read my Tips For The Blind.
“As your mother tells you, and my mother certainly told me, it is important, she always used to say, always to try new things.” - Hannibal Lecter
Tips for the Blind
- Bah Kut Teh in Klang, Jinjang or Kepong
- Cendol and Rojak Pasembor opposite the ss15 Shell in Subang Jaya
- For Indian cuisine – Nirvanas at Bangsar
- For Indian vegetarian cuisine you must visit Annalakshmi at the Mid-Valley
- For a good array of Chinese food, the only place to go is the hawker’s stalls at SS2, Petaling Jaya. The best Leng Chee Kang is also located here, between a very delicious chicken rice stall and chee cheong fun stall, all on the end facing the AM Bank. Then get some Chinese sweets and pastries from the two stalls in the middle of the stretch.
- Best Mata Kuching drink – catch the guy at the end of the night markets in SS2, Bangsar and Subang Jaya. You can also find him at Subang Permai in the afternoons.
- Come down to Taman Eng An, Klang for really good Leng Chee Kang, steamed spring rolls, chee cheong fun, Pan Mee and steamed chicken served on garlic.
- The best Ipoh’s taugeh chicken rice can only be obtained from Ipoh in Ipoh town.
- Go to Bawang Merah in Subang Jaya, opposite the Shereton Hotel for some really good Malay cuisines.
- If alas you are limited with time or just indecisive, take a trip to Asia Café in SS15 Subang Jaya.
- A trip to a night market is also a must:
- Sundays: Bangsar, SS13 Subang Jaya, TTDI.
- Mondays: SS2, PJ
- Wednesdays: SS13, S.Jaya
Any other suggestions?
Place in the Klang Valley
- Pertonas Twin Towers – Get to KLCC before 8:00am and obtain some tickets to view Kuala Lumpur from the sky-bridge. Have lunch at the Suria KLCC food court and then take a stroll through the KLCC Park.
- Dataran Merdeka & the Sultan Abdul Samad building (the Malaysian Supreme Court). Do this at night.
- Federal Territory Mosque along Jalan Duta.
- The Blue Mosque in Shah Alam
- Putrajaya
- Sunway Resort Hotel & Sunway Theme Park (FYI: it was built inside a mining pool)
- Central Market & Petaling Street (a.k.a Chinatown).
- National Monument on Jalan Parliament
- Jalan Masjid India
- Batu Caves
KLCC as seen from within Suria KLCC
A view of the Petronas Twin Towers, Suria KLCC
Petronas Twin Towers at night
KLCC Park and Trader's Hotel (far right)
